Time to move on from Mae Hong Son. But not too far.
As one of the existing oil hoses was going brittle and weeping, while stopped in Mae Hong Son, it was changed for a 300psi American number. Can somebody next time please pop into the scene just before I fit something like this and tell me that it's not suitable?
40km down the road, I had my own little smoke show. Northern Thailand had never seen such a blue haze until that day when my exhaust vapourised a sump-load of Castrol's finest.
You do become laid back about these things though. A tow into the next town took two days to arrange. But with every second car stopping to see if I needed assistance, and spending a night with a bunch of British guys on local off-road motorbikes/push bike, boredem didn't get a look in.