Hose sorted in Chiang Mai, it was time to wander into Laos. A country with a history which makes president GWB's current war-mindset look like kids-with-capguns.

What would you do with $2 million? Not too difficult: I'd have a fleet of Volvo trucks lined up outside my house.

If you were given $2 million, every day for a month, now what would you do with it? Getting stuck for ideas?

If you were given $2 million, every day, for NINE YEARS, I think you'd have serious bother shifting it. Unless, that is, you were in charge of the White House in the late 60's and early 70's. $2 million of bombs were dropped daily on Laos, for NINE YEARS. Half a tonne for every living soul in this rural country.

Not heard of it? No: this was the war which the media didn't get to know about. Or should I say, upon which wasn't allowed to report.

Makes one think, doesn't it.

Anyway. Entering Laos midway up, you fall straight into it's capital, Vientiane. Hanging around only long enough for Shell's diesel nozzle to stop dripping, and to change money (I knew there was a reason for bringing the trailer - Laos is mainly a cash-only society, with all notes being smaller than a single US$), a route was plotted northwards towards Luang Prabang.

Five Laos village children, on the road north of the capital, Vientiane.

Don't judge by appearance. Watching these little ones play along the roadside, with nothing in their toybox except their imagination, provided a new dimension to the word "happiness".

By comparison, my bathroom should be redifined as a cavern, and opened as a tourist attaction.

I'm not saying these caves were small, but if you gave me a box of Polyfilla, I'd have the things filled in and smoothed over within the hour.

Route 13 north: wonderous. Sections of the road lined with villages of bamboo dwellings.

Indeed, bamboo plays a large role in these regions. Having been immobilised myself not so long ago, my heart went out to the guys who were using a bamboo-structured counter-balance system to hoist an engine out of a 30 tonne Nissan truck on the side of the road. No AA on the end of a 'phone out here.